The earliest reference to antioxidant in the cosmetic industry is to maintain the stability of the material through antioxidants. For example, many vegetable oils contain unsaturated double bonds, which will be oxidized by oxygen and rancid; many active ingredients, such as Vitamin A alcohols, are unstable in the presence of oxygen, and need antioxidants to stabilize their activity. The use of different free radical scavengers or antioxidants composite cosmetic products can achieve the effect of delaying the aging of the skin, and these cosmetics are also popular among consumers. At present, most antioxidant test methods also take scavenging free radicals, lowering ROS level and improving antioxidant enzyme activity as the basis of evaluation.
The chemical method is usually based on adding oxidants to react with easily oxidizable substrates to form oxidation products, and then adding antioxidants to detect the free radical scavenging ability as the basis for judgment, such as the common free radical scavenging test. Chemical methods also include the detection of other antioxidant levels, such as antioxidant dismutase (SOD) and ROS levels.
Cell culture technology is utilized to mimic the human physiological environment. Cosmetics are generally applied to the surface of the skin, so cells derived from the skin are largely representative of the actual condition of the skin. The cellular method uses skin-associated cells to measure the ability of antioxidants to scavenge ROS after induction of oxidative stress, and the evaluation of antioxidants is close to that of actual human application. The choice of induction method can be UV, ozone or H2O2, depending on the purpose of the study, with UVA and UVB being the main causes of ROS production, leading to cell growth retardation.
Skin models are constructed by culturing human skin cells on special insertion dishes using tissue engineering techniques, and they highly mimic human skin in terms of gene expression, tissue structure, and metabolic activity. The advantages of skin models are that they are suitable for hydrophobic substances or solids, mixtures or formulated products with different physical and chemical properties; the test conditions can be controlled, the data can be easily quantified and have good reproducibility; the test cycle is shorter; and they are suitable for the testing of raw materials, formulations and finished products.
With the help of spectral analysis and chemical analysis, we can test hydroxyl radical scavenging, superoxide anion inhibition or tyrosinase inhibition. It is also possible to culture human or animal cells in vitro, construct cell models, and characterize the efficacy of cosmetic raw materials through colorimetric methods or combined with enzyme immunoassay and other technical means. For example, the whitening efficacy of cosmetic raw materials can be evaluated by testing their ability to inhibit melanin production in cells, inhibit tyrosinase activity, and so on.
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